This review was originally published in May 2018. If you’re not a destination writing student of mine and have stumbled onto this post, please note that this review is not up-to-date. Please visit one of many accommodation booking websites for the most up-to-date information.

Recently, I had the distinct pleasure of experiencing a Montego Bay guest house unlike any other that I've ever reviewed. I almost couldn't wait to come home so I could start sorting through my photos and collecting my thoughts about this one-of-a-kind oasis hidden high up in the hills overlooking Montego Bay.

RETREAT is definitely the correct word to describe it.

*Taken from the pool deck overlooking the Caribbean Sea*

Where exactly is it?

The location of Waterfield Retreat provides the best of both worlds. It is located far from the maddening crowd of Montego Bay, high up in the hills, but it's still only a ten-minute drive to the city. It is very easy to find.

Driving west from Montego Bay on the A1 highway, a good landmark to watch for is a rock wall on your left marked "Spring Gardens". Just past that wall there's a left turn marked with a red sign for Clarridge Hill. Once you've taken that left turn, you keep driving up the hill and follow the white markers onto an unpaved, private road.

This road is typically Jamaican....a little rough with one harrowing, hairpin turn. But once you round that turn and drive up a little further, it's like the heavens opening up as you arrive and see a lone property sitting atop a quiet hill.

Before meeting your hosts, James and Dee Waterfield, you'll be greeted by Cookie, the most human-acting little Jamaican dog you'll ever meet. And Vibes, the security guard - a big, beautiful Doberman.

The Main House

When I arrived, James gave me a tour of the main house, which serves as a common area for all guests to leisurely spend their days. Once I stepped inside this common area, I forgot all about the fact that I was sleeping elsewhere on the property because all I could focus on was the INCREDIBLE view the minute I walked through the front door.

I've never seen anything like it, and I don't think this view exists anywhere else in Montego Bay.

*Standing in front of this main window was like admiring a piece of gallery art.*

The main house is like sensory overload. I didn't know what to love first - the view out the front window, the pool area off to the side, the secondary view from the pool deck, or the tastefully decorated interior of the house. I wondered if every guest forgets to care about the sleeping quarters once they see all these views.

(Click the images to enlarge)

After catching my breath, James showed me to my guest room, and as I suspected from the photos I'd seen online, it was just as stunning as the rest of the house.

There are two duplex-style cottages on the property apart from the main house. One is a one-bedroom accommodation and the other is a two-bedroom accommodation.

The one-bedroom is more like a studio, and I didn't get to view it because it was occupied by other guests. The studio can accommodate up to four guests, who will find it fully equipped with a kitchenette for added convenience.

The two-bedroom cottage is where I stayed, along with a friend who was travelling with me. And again, when I walked through the front door of this little cottage, the view took my breath away. I was in awe of the scenery and the cottage's pristine condition. Everything in these rooms is so brand new, gleaming, high-tech and GORGEOUS. And hello.....VERY affordable!

*This veranda made it feel like living in a rainforest tree house.*

James and Dee spared NO expenses when creating Waterfield Retreat. You almost forget that you're in Jamaica if not for the fact that lush, green Jamaica fully surrounds you up here.

Immediately inside the door of the two-bedroom cottage, you're in a common space between the two bedrooms. This space has an expansive view, two sitting areas, and a full veranda. The main area features a kitchenette equipped with a coffee maker, kettle, mini-fridge, and microwave. There are also cups, mugs, plates, cutlery and a few packets of instant Blue Mountain coffee to get you started in the morning. Fresh-brewed coffee is also served with breakfast in the main house.

*The main breezeway space between the two bedrooms*

Inside each bedroom are ULTRA-modern fixtures, decor and beds. James told me they imported everything in this house from England, right down to the luxurious high-end mattresses guests have the privilege of melting into. The look and feel of these rooms is jaw-dropping.

(click images to enlarge)

And if you want her, Cookie also seems to love bedroom #2 😁

*She was our shadow during our entire stay 💖*

Hospitality

James and Dee Waterfield are spectacular hosts! They don't miss a single detail, whether it's candlelit dinners in the dim evening light of rural Jamaica or simply lighting the bonfire each night in the firepit beside the pool.

Their living quarters are separate from the common space of the main house, so they're close by if you need them. During the day, they attend to their daily business of running a guest house, and in the evenings, they're an absolute pleasure to sit by the fire with, chatting about life in Jamaica or whatever else comes up.

If you’re here just to "retreat," you're more than welcome to spend all day lounging around the pool or wandering the beautiful, lush gardens surrounding the house.

Alternatively, if guests wish to go on tours and see Jamaica's attractions, James and Dee are on hand to take them. Inside each room is a binder full attractions and tours one might like to experience, and they're happy to take you at an additional cost.

It's obvious that these two are very proud of what they do here and love to share their piece of Jamaica with guests.

Dining Options

Get ready for this one.

James, a Michelin-trained chef in his former days, ensures that meals here are a whole new experience. And Dee is a vegetarian, so her talent in the kitchen expands what is already an incredible menu. I suspect if I had stayed more than a couple of days, I'd be fat from indulgence unless I ran up and down the hill a few times.

The binders in each guest room also contain menu ideas for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and they're flexible, allowing for modifications to suit guest needs or desires.

Each morning, I had a veggie and cheese omelette, which Dee served with fresh-cut fruit, toast and homemade preserves. My travel partner had French toast every morning. On our second morning, James also fried some breadfruit that he had roasted over the fire the night before.

Since I tend to opt for vegetarian meals, Dee was my best friend during my stay. Her creativity was magical! On my first night, I had a veggie burger made from scratch with beans and other ingredients, topped with cheese and fresh lettuce. My travel partner had grilled snapper.

On my second night, Dee suggested another vegetarian dish that she enjoys cooking. She opted for coconut curry veggies, coconut rice and yummy steamed veg on the side. My travel partner had breaded chicken breast, which I also tried, and of course, it was amazing.

I regret not capturing better food photos. It was dark at dinner time, making it difficult to capture the full appearance of everything, but here’s a decent photo of the snapper with freshly made salsa.

All meals were beautifully plated and served with the added bonus of several creative side dishes that we weren't expecting. Some of these sides included homemade coleslaw, pan-fried potatoes, and an assortment of cooked veggies and homemade salsas and relishes. The meals were far more than I had expected.

I asked if they went the extra mile for me because of this review, and they said that every guest is treated this way. So, if you're wondering about getting a bang for your buck, they OVER-deliver.

One of my favorite things about dining at this guest house is that Dee fully embraces her hospitality role while serving dinner. The dining table is set up with care, candles are lit, and ice water is provided. And she puts on her black and white pinstriped apron as if we were dining in a 5-star restaurant.

These two are so down-to-earth that it felt weird letting them clear the table after dinner. It felt as though we were dining at a friend’s house, and we should be helping clear the table and do the dishes! Simply wonderful people. It's no wonder that ALL their reviews on Airbnb are five out of five stars.

The Ambiance

Waterfield Retreat is the true definition of a retreat. During the days, we were left alone to do as we pleased, which mostly consisted of hanging around the pool. How could one not want to just chill here? I did drive down the hill once during my stay, but only to pick up another Canadian and bring her back up here to spend time with us.

Hands down, my favorite time here were the evenings. There's a poolside fire pit that James lights up every night and a spectacular view of Montego Bay after dark. Reggae music pipes through on the pool deck speakers, and we simply sat around drinking and chatting with our hosts until bedtime.

There are very few places I've stayed in Jamaica that make me want to give up the road and just "BE" where I'm at. This is one of those places. I was content staying put and appreciating where I was. In the mornings, you wake up with the fresh cross breeze through your windows to a multitude of singing birds in the distance. It's a true rainforest feel.

The view here is stunning and on cruise ship arrival days, you can watch the ships come in, as seen below.

FUN FACT: You’re so high up here that when planes are flying into the Montego Bay airport, you’re looking down on them.

What's Nearby?

Although you're only a short ten-minute drive from Montego Bay, there is nothing else nearby. Not even a little corner shop. If you don't drive yourself, there are two vehicles and two hosts on site who have no problem taking you down the hill. If you need to pick up liquor, cigarettes, or other sundries, don't fret about being "stuck" up here with nowhere to shop.

If you do drive, as I said, it's a super quick trip into the heart of Montego Bay and depending on traffic, only about a twenty-minute drive to the hip strip if you want a beach or shopping day.

The nearest place to eat is only a few minutes away, right on the main highway. It's a huge and very nice jerk center called Texas Jerk. They sell cigarettes, flasks of liquor and plenty of food at decent prices.

Soooo......here's the part that everyone wants to know - Would I recommend staying here?

In case you didn't already get the vibe from this glowing review, the answer is ABSOLUTELY!!!!

As I mentioned earlier, I rarely find an accommodation in Jamaica where I'm content to stay in and enjoy. This is one of them. It really does have everything a traveller could want - luxury, incredible food, wonderful hosts, and cool vibes. It even has a doggy that wants to come home with you. 😊

*Cookie laying beside my suitcase the morning I packed to leave*

I would like to thank James and Dee Waterfield very much for inviting me to their little piece of heaven! I miss them and the dogs already and will definitely drop in for another visit. Probably dinner too!

This review is published for students of Your Other Passport - a destination writing mentorship program. If you’ve stumbled onto this review on your own, please bear in mind that the information may not be up-to-date. If you’re DYING to know what Your Other Passport is, visit this link and join me in designing your brand new life as a destination specialist! 😊

Waterfield Retreat - Montego Bay